Men's Fashion Week: mixed triple

20-06-2019 08:06

Studies captures the screen

You have never given a penny to Wikipedia (but you surf every four mornings on the educational platform)? Etudes offers you the opportunity to bring – literally – the pages of the participative encyclopedia, pioneering the Internet. Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Egry and José Lamali, a trio of thirties at the head of the Parisian brand, print screenshots of the platform on silk shirts that can go to the knee, while irony.

In parallel with this tribute very post-Internet, the label dear cool kids recalls his attachment to the neighborhood where it was first established (the third district of Paris) by printing his postal code on unisex teddys. The brand has been producing women's pieces for the past two years, and this season they are wearing tube dresses or long polo shirts that are well suited to wear with big shoes.

Études draws on the codes of military clothing, streetwear and sportswear of the 80s and 90s (the sidebands of joggings and jackets Sergio Tacchini way), multiplies the silhouettes tie and dye (orange and yellow, sand and white) on very short trousers above the ankle, accessorises his looks carefully (rectangular banana leather belt, cap embellished with technical fabric on the back to prevent sunburn from redneck, and shows that it has perfectly digested the currents of recent fashion, mixing territories a priori very far ranging from the most widespread esotericism (astrology) to the tradition of portraiture, represented here by the paintings of the Canadian Chloé Wise masterfully printed on silk robes and bathrobes. On a copy, one would write: better and better.

Friend in the dark

So far Alexandre Mattiussi, creator at the head of the label Ami, crisscrossed the grounds of a fashion urban colored, comfortable and without dazzling, identifiable with a double sign of recognition which made a part of its public success: a heart hung to a red "A".

This time, no printed logo, no sweatshirts, no basketball and a mixed parade for a collection of men's and women's pieces. Tuesday, in a barren Grand Palais, crushed by a suffocating heat, the Parisian brand tended almost entirely on the side of the black, in total look more often, or raising fuchsia, camel and red poppy from time to time.

Models present creations by AMI Alexandre Mattiussi, during the men's Spring / Summer 2020 fashion collection show in Paris on June 18, 2019. (Photo by Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP)

Photo Anne-Christine Poujoulat. AFP

Mattiussi lengthens silhouettes and develops a vocabulary that he wants more minimalist and which is more sophisticated than before. Like this trench with large storm flaps that carve the look women's side, this broad coat collar leather glossy for men, leather shirts for all. Sleeveless and buttonless jackets, ample taupe bermuda shorts with marked claws, beautifully pierced summer shirts, and seemingly unimportant pieces that could be heard from a distance wearing silver bells were spotted.

Hed Mayner down to earth

An Israeli from Tel Aviv, now living in Paris, Hed Mayner is a nomad who does not bother with spectacular artifice. His last parade on 18 unisex looks goes to the basics, drawing exaggerated gait sizes to manage not to let the body swim. Mayner talks aboutunsize to describe this out-size that characterizes it. He says he wants to get closer to the primary function of a garment: simplify, soften, affirm. This is why he has been selected in two important awards: Andam, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, and the LVMH prize, which will be the winner in September.

Hed Mayner, youthful air and teenage look, poeticizes the garment and gets closer to mother nature again, in the colors sand and earth, bronze crumpled silks, wheat germs that he deposits on the heads or in pockets. There are large suits of classic style but slit in two sides in the back; a beautiful set tie and dye indigo blue dyed like Japanese shibori; shirts with superimposed stripes, one with long sleeves on which is superimposed another with short sleeves, but very wide, open, airy; a long poncho in off-white wool. Everything is worn with sandals with wooden soles in Japan that slow the pace.

Marie Ottavi

(tagsToTranslate) Clothing (t) Leather (t) Sleeves (t) Internet (t) Paris (t) Sand (t) Silk (t) Shibori (t) Mother Nature (t) Platform