Gieves Hawkes

18 Jul 19
MANPEDIA

London has several distinct shopping areas and shopping streets, many of which have their own themes or specialities. Shopping in London is exciting and varied: from luxury goods in Mayfair to quirky finds in Covent Garden, to large shopping centres such as Westfield and famous London department stores including the likes of Harrods. You can easily spend an hour, an afternoon or […]

03 Jul 19
WWD

The designer is leaving by mutual agreement with Hong Kong-based parent company Trinity Ltd. in order to pursue other opportunities.

01 Jul 19
WWD

The number of deals between western brands and Chinese firms is surging, but there have been far more nonstarters than success stories.

28 Jun 19
Miscellaneous details

How often have you thought about your Shift + 7 key? Ampersands: A beloved character It began life as a shortcut for scribes and proved just as useful for early typesetters, eventually working its way into the English alphabet as the 27th letter. We collectively dropped it from the ABCs, and the decline of handwriting […]

18 Jun 19
WWD

The Royal Warrant recognizes companies who have regularly supplied goods or services to the household.

18 Jun 19
SHOW ME THE WAY

CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO SHOW ME THE WAY WITH KATHRYN SARGENT Kathryn Sargent is a tailor, a quite unusual sight in the male-dominated world of Savile Row. She set up Kathryn Sargent Bespoke Tailoring in 2012 having worked her way from apprentice at No. 1 Savile Row at Gieves and Hawkes to cutter to […]

14 Jun 19
Robb Report

Opt for something crisp, lightweight and breathable.

09 Jun 19
School Archives: Caps to Blazers

A Winchester Strat St Mary’s College near Winchester is well known as Winchester College or affectionately as WinColl by the dons and boys. It was founded in 1382 by William of Wykeham making it one of the oldest schools in the country. There are 11 houses (10 commoner and College) where Collegers are scholars of […]

08 Jun 19
SunnyWrites

“Just because some people actually work for their money doesn’t mean they are beneath you.” — Kevin Kwan Book Intro Crazy Rich Asians is Kevin Kwan’s first novel, which is written in 2013. It is about Rachel’s trip to Singapore with her boyfriend Nick Young and her reaction upon realizing Nick’s family as the wealthiest family […]

23 May 19
Robb Report UK
It won’t surprise anyone to learn that Savile Row is a very traditional place. Garments are still stitched together by hand – largely in the basements downstairs – in an age when nearly all suits are cut and sewn by machine, with most work outsourced in faraway places. But tradition is a double-edged sword. Its values have preserved the craft of the Savile Row bespoke suit – a garment that is still truly unique, flattering in a way no machine-made suit ever could be – but they also have also, at times, hindered it from moving forward. The focus on craft has often been at the expense of an open mind towards other approaches. As such, when the tides of change do hit Savile Row, they tend to hit hard: with disruptive results. It happened in the 1960s when Tommy Nutter started dressing Mick Jagger and The Beatles in his dramatic (but still bespoke) suits. It happened to a lesser extent in the 1990s, with the fresh looks of Richard James, Timothy Everest and Ozwald Boateng. And it is happening again now. There is, as yet, no grand disruption, but behind the scenes, some of the most innovative cutters on and around The Row are changing how they make and cut suits. Jackets are softening; cloths are becoming more casual; tailoring is finally being made that would look as apt worn with trainers to a creative agency as they would with brogues to a corporate boardroom. Thom Sweeney head cutter Eithen Sweet One of the innovators in this area is Thom Sweeney. When the brand set up in 2007 – initially just offering bespoke – it immediately looked fresher and more modern than other tailors’ output on the London scene. Jackets were a touch shorter, a little more open, and there was a certain U-shaped waistcoat that quickly became all the rage. But the bigger changes taking place within Thom Sweeney’s Weighhouse Street and Bruton Place premises have perhaps come more recently, with the very structure of the house’s tailoring starting to evolve under the leadership of head cutter Eithen Sweet. “Our aim was to offer bespoke for seven days of the week,” says Sweet. “Suits, yes, but also soft jackets, denim and even, in recent months, bomber jackets.” Thom Sweeney now offers a soft-shouldered jacket with a lightweight canvas as standard, both in London and in the Manhattan store on West Broadway. The popularity of such unstructured tailoring has grown hugely, particularly since social media has increased awareness of foreign tailoring traditions – such as the rounded, casual style famously offered in Naples. Another tailor innovating away quietly is Davide Taub (main picture), the head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. Although a master of the traditional English suit, Taub is always investigating new styles and new techniques (back in 2003, he made me a bespoke leather jacket, working with the canvas first in order to get the fit right, before venturing into the leather itself). His most successful piece, however, has been a driving jacket made as part of a project with Bentley Motors. With quilted sections and a removable gilet, the jacket was highly functional, and took pride of place during an exhibition at the British Ambassador’s Residence in Washington DC. Taub, like Sweet, has been developing his own version of soft tailoring. “I find customers often want a softer construction – but they still like the strong look of a Savile Row suit,” he says, “so we make something with very little padding at the neck, and just a touch at the end, to lift the shoulder.” A third name to highlight is that of Michael Browne, who set up under his own name last year having left Chittleborough & Morgan (incidentally, it’s funny how innovation seems to breed innovation: the founders of Thom Sweeney both started their careers at 1990s disruptor Timothy Everest; Chittleborough & Morgan were cutters at the aforementioned reformer of Savile Row in the 1960s, Tommy Nutter). Michael Browne Browne is a fiercely talented cutter, with a strong-shouldered style that has won over even the most ardent fans of relaxed jackets. That talent has been developed over years of experimentation, and you can see it in everything he does – from decorative ‘Milanese’ buttonholes to raised lap seams. He has a genuinely inquiring mind: something not always evident along Savile Row. In the 10 years I’ve been writing about, and having suits made on, Savile Row, the tailoring on offer has definitely changed. But it’s interesting that this broadening of outlook is being worked by cutters such as these: craftsmen, rather than the designers such as Nutter and Boateng who changed it in the past. It feels like a more organic change – and perhaps, therefore, a more permanent one.
20 May 19
The Bridal Journey | Online Bridal Magazine

Take a look at Krystle and Stephen’s real wedding inside a Perth Cathedral and yacht club.

16 May 19
Fashion

Wapmaxi Time To Change 2015Gieves & Hawkes’ off the rack lineup is criminally underrated and is a great J Crew/Banana Republic alternative It’s interesting how, in your mind there are some brands that you’d never think you’d be able to afford. And then one day, you finally decide to go check them out, perhaps to […]

16 May 19
TextileFuture

By guest author Sahar Nazir from Retail Gazette For a person of style and elegance, Savile Row tops every list when in pursuit of the finest suits. We visit the world-famous London street to learn how the destination has attracted some influential names in the past, and how it aims to remain as “the finest […]